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SPRING GARDEN 

SPRING PHOTOS (click)

Get the most from your spring garden,Add sensuous smelling plants to fill your garden with Sweet Aroma.

  (Hints & Tips To Ease You Into Spring,)
The Days Are Stretching, Its The Extra Daylight And Increased Temperature That Encourages Growth,
Its cold outside its March,SPRING is here,the signs are everywhere,the Gardens on the Verges the spring bulbs are out
Daffodils,Crocus,Snowdrops Aconites,Shrubs,Trees & Bushes Already Have Their Buds Showing,
The Birds Have Started Pairing Off,We Have A Pair Of Robins In Our Garden,
We Have Also Seen A Pair Of Buzzards,Barn Owls,Blackbirds,Jenny Wrens,Blue Tits,Goldfinches,
(ADD SOME INSTANT COLOUR)
For some instant spring colour, Primulas (primroses) come in many different vibrant colours from yellows to deep purples - they are easy to plant and can cope with competition from other roots and happily grow in boggy ground, rock gardens and borders.

Primula ‘ Adrian’ produces white centred flowers with purple-blue petals with paler outside edges.

Primula ‘Aureata’ provides pale yellow flowers giving spring colour to the garden

Primula ‘Blossom’ is a two-tone primula with golden yellow centres and crimson outer petals.

Everybody loves Tulips, and this time of year they are a great source of colour in the garden, and with their long stems can add some great structure to the garden or patio and balcony. Why not visit your garden centre to find some contemporary pots, and plant with a sea of Tulips of various colours and great names.

Tulipa ‘Artist’ with two-tone flowers of yellow and salmon pink, stand out in any corner of the garden.

Tulipa ‘Bird of Paradise’ bears feather-like deep red flowers, in late spring.

Tulipa ‘Golden Oxford’ gives as the name suggests golden flowers in mid-spring.

Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’ is a velvety deep purple with wide broad petals.

For something different why not try the Tulipa ‘Union Jack’ white flowers with a red strip down the centre. 

There are over 100 varieties of Tulips as well as many flowering plants that can be planted in spring. Why not visit your local garden centre or nursery where many of these will be widely available. 

Top Tip: With another long hot summer being predicted. Why not catch the rain and the possible hosepipe bans early and fit a water butt to your down pipe. These are readily available in many sizes and are very easy to fit, giving your plants extra water when it is needed to keep them healthy all summer long.
(START PLANTING NOW) 
Try planting hardy cyclamen under trees which can add interest during the autumn and winter months. Cyclamen hederifolium produce their flowers in autumn, followed by very attractive leaves. Prepare the site well by incorporating lots of well–rotted organic matter and keep them well watered until they are established.
Plant up climbing plants such as Jasmine and Honeysuckles.  These climbing plants look stunning in deep blue or contemporary steel containers especially when placed around your patio or balcony areas.  What's more they will not only climb over unsightly fences or trellis but will even disguise your dustbin area and the give of a wonderful fragrance!
(NEW PLOT)
Dig over the ground thoroughly and remove all traces of perennial weeds and large stones. 
Incorporate extra grit if your soil is poorly drained or if your plants require it - this is particularly important if you're planting bulbs and alpines. 
Add organic matter to improve the soil. High levels of organic matter are required by some plants but all will benefit. 
Level off the site and break down large lumps of soil. 
If you have not prepared the whole area dig a hole for the plant twice as wide and as deep as the original container and improve the soil as above. If the soil is low in nutrients - for example if your soil is sandy - add a light dressing of fertiliser in the planting hole and mix well. Add a further light top dressing after planting but not close to the stem. Do not use large amounts of fertiliser as this can damage plant roots.
(PLANTING)
Check the hole is large enough for the plant, ensuring all the roots will fit in when extended. 
Soak the plant. Immersion for a short time is the best method - when bubbles stop coming to the surface, remove and allow the surplus water to drain away. 
Remove the container and if the plant roots are dense gently loosen so they will branch out into new ground. Ideally, new roots will just be reaching the outside of the pot at planting time - in this case do not disturb at all. 
Depth of planting is important: the plant should usually end up at the same depth in the ground as it was in the pot. Place a pole across the planting hole to enable you to judge this. 
Planting depth can be important with some plants - for example plant peonies too deep and they will take years to come into flower. Plant clematis too shallow (the lower stem should be buried) and they are susceptible to clematis wilt. Check plant instructions for details on planting depth.
(WATERING)
Water in well, thoroughly soaking the soil. For trees and shrubs, mound soil around the perimeter of the planting hole to retain water and fill a number of times and daily thereafter for a few weeks. Trees and shrubs may need watering for up to a year. Tall trees may require staking - particularly in a windy site. 
Finish off by mulching the ground with a 50 - 75mm (2 - 3in) layer of organic matter to discourage weeds and retain moisture. If you do not, you must scrupulously remove weeds. New weed seeds will germinate quickly, competing with your plants for water and food. See Controlling Weeds for more information about this. 
If the roots have been damaged (eg if you have moved the plant from another situation) balance the roots and the top of the plant by pruning. This will encourage the plant to grow away better. Many plants (never rhododendrons) benefit from pruning at planting time. See Pruning Tips for more information about this. 
Tip: For alpines and plants susceptible to neck rots, mulch with grit immediately around the stems to keep dry. 

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